2019 Recounted

As I like to do, here is a year-end list for 2019--

1.              Arlington National Cemetery and Gettysburg

We laid my Dad to rest in Arlington Cemetery, and visited the Gettysburg to honor his memory. 2019 will always be the year I lost my Dad, and everything else was second, and so I have to have this slotted up top. Arlington is haunting, with its fields of white tombstones. Gettysburg too, standing by rocks on Devil's Den, knowing the close quarters combat that happened there, less than two lifetimes ago.

2.              Monogram Lake

            Mike and I had  a nice, hard hike up to Monogram Lake in the North Cascades, right outside of Marblemount. Be warned: this is a climb! Maybe 5k up, but it felt like more--it felt like we’d never get there. Round trip was over 10 miles. We made it, finally, and found a gorgeous  mid-sized alpine lake, sitting beneath a cirque of cliffs. We tried to catch fish—it was a way to honor my Dad, who loved to fish—but the best I could do was lose a lure and bobber, forcing me to go for an impromptu swim. Fishing is reportedly good here--I'm just not. Great blueberries and wildflowers (lupine, astors, heather) along the way. Bear country.

3.              The Big Island

            Deborah and I visited the Big Island again, and I am sold—I could live there. Our condo was right on the water—so close, I could throw a baseball and bounce it off a sea turtle, probably. We visited Hilo and the Merrie Monarch Festival, Hawaii’s celebration of hula. This is a beloved festival for Hawaiians. I went for a pre-sunrise walk eight mornings in a row, which allowed me to see a quiet Kona and get coffee to start the day. No races this year., but a bit of running by the water. We toured a chocolate farm, visited Hawi and the north end, and attended my first luau, long overdue after many trips to the Hawaii. Aloha is a state of mind, which needs regular updating.

4.              Chuckanut 50k

            This year's Chuckanut 50k was probably not a good idea for me, but I finished, for the seventy time, fifteen yeas after my first. I am a not a good example on how to approach this though. I got up in the C-nuts before the race to train, but not nearly enough. This was a serious snow year. RD Krissy put in an early start and added an hour to the finish. I needed most of that time to get it done. I was passed by runners and walkers all day, and it got to be funny hearing how people addressed me:  “Thank you boss!” “Thank you sir!” “”Looking good!”(No.)   Great job as always by Krissy, Kevin, Gretchen, and everyone. So good to see many friends. Due to peer pressure, I am scheduled again for this event this coming March. We'll see.

5.              March Point Half Marathon

            This local course out by Anacortes is so beautiful, circling March Point and then traveling over saltwater on the Tommy Thompson Trail. I saw some seals, eagles, and herons. A small crowd for the half, but plenty of support, and a great barbq at the end. I love all the local options for events around here. Annually, there are probably a dozen half marathons within a half hour or so of home, if I start counting them up. This is one of the best.

6.              Sourdough Mountain

            My friend Craig and I both list Sourdough Mountain as one of our very favorite hikes around Washington State. It is a hard climb, but the views up top are outstanding, and it has great history and character. We finally got to cover the loop together. I was a little nervous, wondering if I was up for the distance, but it all went fine, and the hike was beautiful as always.  The back side seemed longer than ever though, with no water from the top down, and a barely cared for trail. The back side gives an entirely different view. Craig’s company made this day, as we chatted quietly about everything from John Muir to current events.

7.              Lookout Mountain

 After reading a great book on lookouts in Washington, I wanted to start tagging some of the ones I haven’t. This was a wonderful quiet morning in the early fall,  alone, This is a tough climb, and I didn’t get much in the way of views, but the Lookout was really cool.. I loved the quiet alone time on trail. The first half of the hike is the same route as Monogram. Love the North Cascades, and this one is a great trail for the hard workout and proximity to home.

8.              Monterey Bay, California and Big Sur

            I made the most of a work trip, visiting Monterey, Point Lobos Nature Reserve, Big Sur, Cannery Row, and the Salinas Valley. The clam chowder on the wharf is memorable. I also threw in a 5k—the only open race—on a beautiful out and back course in Pacific Grove.  The Monterey Bay Aquarium is really worth visiting—very educational on conservation issues, and downright stunning  aquatic viewing. 

9.              New York City- Global Citizen and Central Park

            We attended the Global Citizen Festival again, on the Great Lawn in Central Park, which was incredible. My favorite was Alicia Keys, especially her New York song. Queen was great too, and Carole King. The passion of the kids and celebrities supporting great causes was inspiring. I also got out one morning and ran the full 6 mile loop of Central Park. Crazy to see commuters on skate boards cutting through the Park. We visited Liberty Island and Ellis Island, Little Italy, and Chinatown.  We also walked through the Park to go to The Met, and I got my fill of Van Gogh and Rothko.  The Play It Loud exhibit, filled with instruments from all the legends, was terrific. A really great trip.  Now, every time when we see we the Big Apple on a TV or a movie, which is just about every day,  we say, “We were there!”

10.       Packrafting the Sauk River

Seth and I got out twice this year, as I recall.  The first was a very pleasant walk in the snow on the Cascade Trail for the Woolley Half Marathon. We walked most of the way, and the conversation was good. Terry joined us for a bit. Later in the year, I tried "packrafting" with him and Ellen on the Sauk, a tributary of the Skagit.  I was a complete and total disaster on the river, and we had to walk me out after I got hung up and later dumped. Alive and well, it makes for a funny story now. This will always be a favorite memory of mine for this past year, due to the adventure of it, and thepure beauty of the Sauk River. 

The year was filled with many other great experiences. I think one of my favorite moments was attending the Rolling Stones concert with Deb in Seattle. They were outstanding, and a band I always wanted to see. Giddy. We also saw Queen and Adam Lambert in Tacoma with Dan and Heidi, in addition to at Global Citizen. Mike and I caught The Who at T-Mobile not too much later, with a guest appearance from Eddie Vedder. Deb and I saw the Mariners and the Aquasox a few times, always a summer joy. There were local birding trips. I rekindled my joy for reading books, opting for books over other forms of entertainment often. 

There were a number of other races. I finished my 16^th Baker Lake 50k. Another Nookachamps Half in the books, slow if I recall correctly. I also completed the 50^th edition of the Seattle Marathon, on a chilly day. Another Skagit Flats half, and some  volunteering with Skagit Runners. I also volunteered at Cascade Crest 100 at Little Bear, visiting with many old friends. It wouldn’t be the Fourth without a Great Sedro-Woolley Footrace. Mike and I also ran the Labor Day Half, a race I PRed in back in the late '90s, on a Redmond trail I've biked, hiked, and ran on since the early '80s. Who says you can't go back?

In between football games on Sunday, I put down a beautiful 10k on Little Mountain, to support local trail work efforts. Also, so great to hike the back end of the Baker Lake Trail one rainy Saturday with Deb, Carrie, and Brad. Going slow here opened up new sights to me, and it was the company that made the day special. There was a crazy night, where I got up at 12 AM and drove out to Samish Island, to look for the aurora borealis. I saw a few columns, standing in a spooky field. Early in the year, I ran most of the Cascade River Trail by myself, to join Skagit Runners for pizza at Annie's. This is a club tradition.

Today is the start of a new decade. New goals, new hopes, new adventures. Thanks to all who check in here, and for your continuing friendship. All my best wishes for the new year and decade to you and yours.

Woolley Half Marathon

Technically, I finished the Woolley Half Marathon on Saturday. It really was just a pleasant long walk with Seth on the Cascade Trail. Perhaps my slowest half ever. No worries, be happy. We had a great day--beautiful ice and snow, a few birds, many friends, fresh air.

We've had snow this past week--more than in recent years, and folks have come to call it Snowmaggedon. It hasn't been that bad, but the Cascade Trail was mostly covered still, which made for a crunchy time. The standard course was changed into a double out and back, but one and done was the way to go. The temps sat around just under 40 degrees, and for the most part the skies were large, with some interesting clouds, but only a bit of rain.

Always so good to spend time with Seth. Great to really meet Ellen. Also good to see so many of my Skagit and ultra friends---Craig, Terry, Stan, Toi, Delores, Chris, and so many other familiar faces. The after race barbq on this event was/is the bomb. Terry and crew do such a great job.

Afterwards, we visited some antique shops and then made our way to Fir Island, to look at birds. We found ourselves down on the mud flat near Snow Goose. We watched eagles chase each other over scraps of food, chirping, diving, fighting. We saw a large flock of snow geese, lots of swans, a pair of herons, and other anonymous birds. There were a few moments, standing on a log and just listening to the birds fly over head, which took me away.  
 

Cascade Crest

This is a bit of a catch-up post, but I made it out to the Cascade Crest 100 a couple weeks ago. My intention was to volunteer with BJ, Erica, Mike, and Killer at Little Bear. Alas, due to fires, the course was re-routed into an out and back to Hyak, and Little Bear was vaporized. Rich and his team did an amazing job adjusting things. I had great fun hanging out with folks before the race, and then later out at Stampede Pass. Stampede was a happening place, with a pretty big crowd watching the comings and goings. I cheered on Seth, Shawn, and a bunch of other runners. Also, great job by everyone involved. Way to go peeps! 

I include here also a pick of the Chew and Butts sign from Cle Elum, just because. Also, August brought us the Great American Solar Eclipse. This deserves its own post, but basically at 10:20 in the morning, shadows grew long, the sun disappeared behind the moon, and society stood still for a few minutes. It was really cool.

A Few Bird Pictures from Skagit

Pair of Eagles with nest on Fir Island

Eagle nest in the distance, across Wiley Slough, Skagit estuary

Eagle pair from a different angle, Fir Island

 Peregrine falcon, at dusk, Wiley Sough

Trees in water, Skagit estuary

Mount Baker, viewed from the southwest

These pictures were taken a few weeks ago on a Sunday when friends Seth and Naomi came by, and we wandered around the valley a bit during the afternoon. In addition to these, we saw many, many snow geese, trumpeter swans, and an owl in flight. A very nice afternoon, and always good to spend time with friends.

Skagit Wildlife Recreation Area

My friend Seth dropped by a weekend or two ago, back from some amazing adventures in Nepal. We had a bit of time, so we checked out the Skagit Wildlife Recreation Area, which is becoming a favorite local jaunt of mine.

The recreation area is off the Conway exit, and is referred to also as the Wiley Slough.  There are some dike trails which are a few feet above the Skagit drainage. This is an estuary area, where fresh water meets salt water. Estuary areas are rich in wildlife, as an edge ecological zone, and therefore make for great fun for traipsing around.

We took the trail to the end, and came upon a local conservationist who lives on Fir Island, and who had all sorts of great information about the migratory birds and what they like to eat.  He also pointed out that we might be able to seals if we hiked out to the point, which was basically along the river and through mudflats.

Seth had brought the family dog--who's name is momentarily escaping me, apologies, Seth-- who was thrilled to jump around through the mudflats. Right now, the cattails are at full height, which made our little trek through the flats that much more of an adventure.

I don't mean to make this more than it sounds--we were only out for a couple hours.  What I like about this place is you can see so much cool ecology in such a short time. It's not really a runner's destination, though I suppose loops could be done.  It is more of a naturalist's exploration and delight.   Hunters like it too, for birds. Such is the nature of shared conservation spaces.

We ended up seeing all sorts of birds--herons, eagles, warblers, gulls-- and we made it out to a point, across from Camano Island and Whidbey Island.  We weren't so fortunate to make the full point and see the seals, but there's always next time.  This site is particularly favored in the winter, when there are more migratory birds in the area. Seeing the area in summer, with berries, cattails, and different birds makes for a wonderful contrast.

Some day I'm going to carry a chair out here and just sit for half a day, taking note.

Easy Pass

Friend Seth and I got out to Easy Pass in the North Cascades this weekend.  We were looking for something with a serving of amazing, and this fit the bill.  I've been here a number of times before, and have blogged about it too. I don't mind going back--it's great to visit familiar places to see how the change of season might affect the view.

Basically, Easy Pass is a 3.5 mile climb up, whereupon on a good day you can get amazing views of the Fischer Basin. and a slough of glaciers.  Larch trees line the ridge of the pass area, and will turn golden in a few months.

Good day--amazing views, with close to empty trails.  The Pass and trail beyond are true wild areas.

Annapurna Circuit

The Annapurna Circuit is a horseshoe shaped trek through the central Himalaya of Nepal, covering somewhere between 135 and 185 miles depending on who you believe. I would lean toward the latter figure, but I don't know. The high point of the trek is Thorong La Pass at 5416 meters (17769 feet). The trek ascends the Marsyangdi River watershed, and then descends through the Mustang Province and the Kali Gandaki River watershed. The Circuit is one of the most amazing places I've been.

Most guides provide a 16 to 21 day itinerary for the trek, but friends Seth, Rich, and I fastpacked it in about 11 days, out of necessity. More time would’ve been nice. It seems most Circuit trekkers are younger, just out of the military or school, with little money but plenty of time on their hands. The trek is very popular for 20-something Israelis, Swiss, and Germans. We of course have jobs to return to. So we typically stayed on the trail for 10-12 hours a day, and usually exhausted ourselves by the time we found our evening accommodations. One of my favorite memories is of Seth, completely passed out on his bed in Chamche, headlamp still on, shining at the ceiling. That's just how it was some nights.

I'm going to try to briefly describe our time on the trek here, and then include a bit on our planning details. We took plenty of pictures. I've posted some below, but for more, please click here. Also, for Seth's most excellent writeup and pictures, click here.

The Trek

The first half of the trek is defined by the gradual but steady ascent towards the 17,761 foot Thorong La pass. The trek follows the Marsyangdi River, beginning low amidst rice fields and other tropical vegetation, and then steadily climbs through subalpine and alpine ecological zones, deeper into the Manang Province. On the way up, you pass through Hindu and Tibetan Buddhist villages, with periodic views of the Annapurna Himalayas. The late monsoon season left our views wanting, though from time to time we got lucky, and stunned, by the magnificence of the Himalayas.

Mani walls and prayer wheels mark the road. And make no mistake, the trail is often road, though I may call it trail here. Long suspension bridges above whitewater gorges are hourly occurrences. The butterflies and birds of the Himalaya are stunning, in their different colors and variety. And the terraced agriculture…gorgeous. We shared the trail with locals and their cattle, “Namaste” being the common greeting. I was struck though that many locals seemed jaded to the tourists.

We moved fast, typically trekking separately but checking in with each other at pre-designated villages. We seemed well matched in pace and disposition—we were friends going in, and certainly all the better of friends coming out. I think three people is a good group size for this adventure. I had my days when I wanted to be more alone, and other days where I wanted to move faster, but basically we were able to watch out for each other, and be good company when we stopped, even if exhausted. Our stops were marked by the routine of setting up the water filtration system, ordering garlic ramen soup and/or dal bhat (rice, lentil soup, and curried taters), and then looking at the map to figure out where we were, and where we were headed.

We had our gadgets. Seth carried a Spot and various phones, including a satellite phone. Seth is the wizard on global phone services. Both Rich and Seth listened to lots of music; I managed to lose my shuffle somewhere along the way, but was fine with that. I never heard a song, except the ones I sang, which seemed to keep my friends at some distance. We all had cameras, of course, though nothing heavy. I kind of wish I'd bought something newer. I was able to text from time to time, at .50 a text via AT&T. We were usually able to charge batteries at lodges, sometimes for a small fee. Occasionally we were able to find a lodge with internet. I definitely missed being “connected,” in a  way that I would not have fathomed a few short years ago.

We took the recommended day of rest in Manang, where we got shaken by a 6.9 earthquake atop the Yak Hotel, a building of questionable construction. Manang and its valley is a really gorgeous little spot, where a lot of trekkers land for a few days, with lots of day trip options. I climbed up to Praken Gompa for a puja ceremony before a lama, in which the lama put a small multi-colored string around my neck and said a few words for Thorng La. Small donation expected, which I unfortunately forgot. Rich and Seth climbed above Gangapurna Lake, to get a closer look at a massive glacier. On the second evening I caught "Into Thin Air" in a basement projector room, with tea and popcorn, on yak fur covered bench. While in Manang, I also picked up a hat, sunscreen and gloves--plenty of supplies available. The rest day was one of my favorites.

At the lower elevations, I contended with sun, getting quickly burnt by the intense ultraviolet rays of the high Himalayas. At the higher elevations, the altitude was a constant challenge, but I never experienced mountain sickness, perhaps due to taking Diamox from Manang on. We ascended a little quicker than typically recommended, gaining more than a 1000 meters each day after Manang. I think we all did well enough, though we had a rough night of sleep at Thorang Phedi, elevation 4450 meters. We also had to persuade some Justin Bieber wannabe kid there that we really were told our room would be free. He wanted no part of that, which was sort of amusing.

On the morning of the seventh day, we crossed Thorong La Pass at 5416m. A great feeling, as we’d spent a week thinking and moving towards this pass. The Pass was unfortunately fog covered, so we didn’t get the great views of the grand peaks there, but the fog and light snow created its own marvelous landscape. I relied heavily on two trekking poles to get me up that hill. One step, two step, three step, rest. Repeat.

Once over the pass, the trail descends 2000 meters within hours into the arid Mustang Province, a dramatically different landscape, resembling the high Tibetan plateau of China. Those trekking poles were real lifesavers on that descent too, which turned into a bit of a muddy mess.

By early afternoon, we arrived in the town of Muktinath, at 3800 meters. Muktinath is a pilgrimage site for both Hindus and Buddhists, as one of the few temples to Vishnu, the Hindu god, and a Tibetan Buddhist monastery. Prayer flags filled the hills and lined walls; ammonite fossils and scarves were for sale in the streets; and pilgrims were making the climb to the temple, with robed monks everywhere. We kept moving, making it all the way to the tiny village of Khinga.

Up early the next morning, we began the second half of the trek, descending through the Kali Gandaki watershed, through the arid Mustang province, and by and through towns such as Kagbeni, Jomsom, and Marpha. The morning was spectacular, with blue skies, views of Dhauligiri (7th highest peak at 26,795 feet), Annapurna 1 (10th highest peak, at 26,554 feet) and other snowcapped peaks, with the dry Mustang hills and plateau cutting a distinctly different view to the north.

Our trail was typically dirt road, which we shared with Jeeps, and this was at times a real downer. Many have already given up on the Kali Gandaki side of the trek due to the construction and use of roads, choosing to Jeep out, or catch a plane out of Jomsom. It is sad, for the trekking crowd, as road development threatens the near-future of the Annapurna Circuit. Ultimately, I expect new trails paralleling the road will be constructed, and we saw some of this happening.  Still, now is the time to take this trek on, before further development occurs.

Our afternoon in the upper Mustang was marked by a fierce headwind, which we hiked directly into. I mean fierce. Just when you think you’ve got the hardest part of the trek done, the elements throw something new at you. I just kept plugging away, but that afternoon was a grinder, with the wind and occasional Jeep buzzing by. The Kali Gandaki watershed reminded me of Alaska, with its huge valley walls, and the river spread wide across the valley floor. Evergreens began to come into the picture again towards day’s end. The next day was a relatively short one downhill to Tatopani, where I bonked a bit, probably just worn down after so many tough days, though sun and humidity are no friends of mine.

Right about when you figure you’re supposed to be done with all the hard work, the Circuit ends with a kicker called Poon Hill. On Day 10 we climbed about 2000 meters, step by step, to Ghorepani, beneath Poon Hill. That was one tough day--6000 feet of climb with a pack on, probably our biggest single day. Ghorepani had perhaps the best lodge on the trek, with great tandoori, a big fire, and Madonna on the stereo. Some beers were poured.

The next morning we got up at 4:30 AM and climbed Poon Hill, elevation 3200m, in hopes of taking in the whole Annapurana Range. No such luck—score one to the fog. After a hearty breakfast, we headed down the other side of the hill, descending another 2000 meters, and in my case slipping and falling three times on steps, which just happened to have streams flowing down them. The trek finished at Nayapul, elevation 1070 meters, where we caught a cab to Pokhara, beginning our slow return to normal, as we know it to be.

We did the Annapurna Circuit during the tail end of the monsoon season. Chancey move. We lucked out though, as we rarely had much in the way of rain or adverse weather. The downside was we probably saw less of the high, snowcapped Himalayan peaks than others may see in October, because of a lingering high cloud cover. However, the trails were far emptier than in October, and things couldn't have been much more green. We found the lodges jealous for our business, offering us free nights to stay as long as we promised to order dinner and breakfast. The typical cost for this package was 1000 rupees, or roughly $12.50 USD. We saw some weird price variations along the trek. For example, a pot of tea cost twice or three times as much at the higher elevations. The menus were almost always the same--I think I ate dhal bhat for 10 days straight in the evenings.

Well, this has been fun to write up. It was quite the adventure—everything I hoped for, and without a doubt one of the greatest trips of my life. Perhaps the best part of the experience was sharing the adventure and trail with Rich and Seth. Here are a few other facts, which I’d like to be able to recall later, and which may be of interest.

Our Itinerary

Arrive in evening at Besisahar (820m)-hike/ride to Khudi (790m)
Day 1: Check in at BhulBhule (840m), finish in Chamche (1385m) Total: 22km
Day 2: Thanchowk (2570m) Total: 21km
Day 3: Lower Pisang (3250m) Total 24km
Day 4: Manang (3540m) Total 16km
Day 5: Rest in Manang, with climb to Praken Gompa
Day 6: Thorung Phedi (4450m) Total 15km
Day 7: Khinga (3355m) Total 20km
Day 8: Kokhethanti (2525m) Total 35km
Day 9: Tatopani (1190m) Total 23km
Day 10: Ghorepani (2750m) Total 17km
Day 11: Finish at Nayapul (1070m), after Poon Hill (3200m) ascent Total 14km

The kilometer distances are completely unreliable, but these were provided by Nepal's Annapurna Conservation Area Project. I’ve seen different distances online, and I’m pretty sure Rich’s Garmin shows a much larger number for the total trek. Distance is kind of irrelevant in the Himalayas—ascent and descent figures are more meaningful, generally. You just don’t move far or fast when you’re traveling above 10,000 feet, especially with a backpack.

Partial Gear List

Originally, we planned on running the Circuit. I think I was the one to flinch at this, when it came down to packing gear. I found it very hard to plan a run from so far away, with limited information and support. In particular, I was concerned about going too light in gear for the higher elevations. In the end, we went with light packs—maybe 20lbs.—but I carried enough clothes to stay warm and dry, whatever conditions we hit. Our plan ended up doing longer days and staying steady. If I was to do it again, I could lighten the load some more, particularly on clothes. However, when you don’t know what to expect, I think there’s a lot to be said for bringing the mountain etiquette and being safe. I kept coming back to the fact that elevations above 12,000 feet are not something to mess with, especially in monsoon season.

Here's a partial list:

REI Flash Pack 65 (too big, but was on sale, and is "ultralight")
Patagonia Nano Half-Zip
OR Gore-Tex Lite Shell
Montrail Mountain Masochists shoes
Three short sleeve tech shirts
Running sleeves
Midweight half-zip Patagonia
Long sleeve Chuckanut Patagonia shirt
Pants
Two pairs of shorts
Two pairs of Patagonia bottoms
Anti-chafing underwear
Several pairs of trail running socks
Hats (cap and cold weather)
Running gloves
Sunscreen
Fleece sleeping bag liner (no bag)—blankets available in lodges
Electronics and charging gear
Camera
Black Diamond Alpine Carbon Cork Trekking Poles
Platypus Water Filter system

Money

I budgeted roughly 2000 rupees a day ($25 USD), which allowed for contingencies, candy bars, the occasional hat purchase, et al.  I was in Nepal for roughly three weeks and exchanged $700 USD, which covered the trek, travel to and from Pokhara (shared car and flight), nicer meals in Kathmandu, and some souveniers.  A person could certainly get by on much less, though 700-1200 rupees a day seemed typical for the lodge and meals. We felt like we saved money, once in Nepal, as compared to how much I might've spent at home on typical things.

Insurance

An American Alpine Club membership ($75 USD) comes with $5000 Global Rescue insurance. Estimated cost of a helicopter evacuation is $2500 USD. Great organization. We also spent a night at the Kathmandu Clubhouse as AAC guests of the MountainFund, for $15 each. I probably should’ve bought flight insurance, as I heard tales of lost luggage, particularly with Jet, but I never got to it, and everything turned out fine. I did check my backpack in a bigger duffle bag, with a lock on it.

Permits

Seth’s friend Dorjee Sherpa and his company, Himalayan Windhorse Adventure, took care of picking up the trekking permits, saving us at least a day or two once in Nepal. I think the cost was around $50 for the permits. Dorjee also provided information on cost expectations and stood ready to assist us as needed during the trip, which was a nice safety net. Dorjee was great, as was Seth a facilitator.

Transportation

Rich and I searched Kayak.com for fares, including fares from Seattle and Vancouver. We ended up landing a $1450 fare through CheapO Air, flying on American Airlines and Jet Airlines. At the end of the trek, we flew back from Pokhara for $92, which I had to pay in cash.

We split the cost of a private car to get to Besisahar, and I want to say that total cost was roughly $100 USD. Our cab fare from Nayapul to Pokhara I believe was 1500 rupees ($20 USD). Kathmandu cabfare was 500 rupees ($7.50 USD).

Return to Nepal

In 1998, I visited Nepal for two months on my first real trip abroad, as sort of a culminating experience to several years of hard work in school. The trip was amazing. Everything was fresh--I was a novice to such travel, and I couldn't have picked a further place to go. I made my way up to Everest Base Camp, and also spent a great deal of time in other parts of Nepal, like the Chitwan, Pokhara, and Kathmandu. I got to know many people from Nepal and other countries. Truly one of the greatest experiences and times in my life.

However, due to the unfortunate theft or loss of my money belt in Lukla, some of my plans for Nepal and India were left unfinished.  That belt of course had my life in it—all my money, my cards, my passport. The situation was a disaster--every traveler's nightmare.   

I spent a week or two piecing my identity back together. There were consular interviews, Interpol interviews, faxed communications with the folks, secret passwords and wire transfers, and lots of credit extended to me by kind Nepali people in the meantime. It all worked out, but for a while there I was a complete wreck. Add to this that I got bitten by a rabid dog on this trip, and had to self-administer six rabies vaccine shots. These were the best of times, these were the worst of times, as Dickens said.

One of my plans for that 1998 trip was to trek the Annapurna Circuit, a world famous trek around the Himalayas in Central Nepal.  It is said by some to be the greatest trek in the world.  Unfortunately, I just didn’t have enough time left to undertake this adventure, which was estimated at 21 days.  I had to be content to leave Annapurna for some eventual day down the road.

Thirteen years go by.  

I am older, and find myself in a different place in life.  Physically, mentally, professionally, personally, socially. Priorities change. Technology. History. 

Nonetheless, I always thought someday I’d return to do Annapurna.

Then, over the last few years, rumors occasionally caught my attention, suggesting that parts of the Circuit are in jeopardy, due to the construction of roads.  And then more recently, I read somewhere that some major road would be finished in 2012. If I am to believe what I read, there is a "Now or Never" thing going on, and I should be paying attention.

So, at some point this year, I got a little more serious.   

Maybe it was when my friend Larry told me, “Do it, Scott…nobody will do it for you.”  

Or maybe it was that ongoing internal discussion--Why should it be SUCH a big deal to get away for a bit?  The expense?  Not THAT bad.....The time?  OK, that’s tough, but really, one extra week?....And don’t Europeans do this sort of thing a lot? And with my age, shouldn't I be making this a priority now? Go see the great paintings later in life...climb the mountains now.

By early summer, I realized I’d be discontent with myself for a long time if I didn’t seriously try to knock this one off the list sooner than later.  

So, I talked to my friend Seth, who was already in Nepal.  We talked about running the Circuit, and we initially agreed to do this, although I struggled with this idea later.  I talked to friend Rich about going, and he actually was willing and had the availability.  I went to Kayak and started searching airfares, and the numbers and timeframes became more real.  I talked with work, and work was graciously  accommodating of the extra time.  It all somehow came together.  

One of the funniest moments in prep was after a week of watching a certain airfare, having a conference call with Rich and mutually hitting submit with our credit cards.  On CheapO Air. We were very excited...."We're doing it!" After that, there were the emails, the phone calls, the communications, the miscommunications.

What to bring? What shots to get, and how to get them cheaply? How big is your pack? Right underwear for chafing? Insurance? Hiking sticks? Sleeping bag? Visas? Pillow?

So, on the tenth anniversary of September 11^th, I found myself meeting Rich at 7 AM at Sea-Tac Airport, with backpack, ready to set off on a 40 hour journey to Kathmandu. Our flight: Sea-Tac to Chicago to New Delhi to Kathmandu.  Two days later, we meet Seth at the Hotel Marshyangdi in Thamel, change our dollars for rupees, and then soon head off on our eight hour drive across Nepal to the start of the Annapurna Circuit trek.

 I'll write up the actual trek in a separate post, soon to follow. But for me, a significant part of the trek was just getting to the starting line. Not the easiest thing to do with such a big trip, in my rather established life. Another big part of the trek for me was just taking in the changes to Nepal and myself after all this time. And the hills. The hills were still big. But like I said, I'll write about that with the next post.