Copper Ridge Lookout

Craig and I did a long day trip to Copper Ridge Lookout about three weeks ago. The views were spectacular, as the skies were clear. This is one of the best spots for views in the North Cascades, and these photos don't do the 360 degree mountainscape justice.

We saw a mama bear with two cubs near the lookout, foraging. We also saw a goat right below the lookout. The marmot pictured here was very accomodating.

The hike was pretty dry--running water wasn't to be found after Boundary Camp, although there was a snow patch up high. We talked ot the lookout ranger--she was on an eight day stint, and I sort of envied her getaway. 

We didn't do the full loop, as I did a few years back with Mike and Rich, but I heard the sockeye were swimming the Chiliwack. The trail itself was in terrific condition, due to the work of trail crews. Very runanble, though we just hiked fast.

A great day, overall--certainly a highlight in a year lacking them. 

As I write this, the skies are now full of ash and soot, from horrible wildfires that have taken over the Washington, Oregon, and California. It's hard to fathom these remarkable views, just three weeks ago. The fires were really bad in 2018 as well, and have been increasing, presumably in relation to climate change. I know in my lifetime I've witnessed changes in the high country--this hike is a good example, as we expected more snow cover in August on the ridge, which in the past some times does not even open up. Also, the glaciers in Hannegan valley seem to have receded from when I first did that hike in the 1990s. 

Monogram Lake

Mike and I hiked up to Monogram Lake yesterday, in the North Cascades National Park. The trail is reportedly about 10 miles, out and back. The first three miles are shared with the trail to Lookout Mountain. The trailhead is right off the Cascade River Road, east of Marblemount.

We got the early start, leaving Mount Vernon before 6 AM. Thank you Mike. After a coffee stop, we drove up in the rain--slight drizzle. We stopped at the Shell Station in Marblemount to assess. Funny thing--this gas station sells machetes by cash register, for all those who wish to venture in to the brush, I guess. "Cheaper than Wal-Mart--we buy in bulk." I bought one, and carried it the whole day, occasionally hacking nettles, ferns, and brush. This trail has a reputation for being brushy, and we did pass through one kind of thick section.

This is a hard hike, similar to Sourdough. It is just constant up. We hiked up through a steady drizzle, and while I huffed and puffed, I really enjoyed the trail. It is classic North Cascades forest, going up, with mossy trees, old growth, steep ledges. But it is all up.

We ran into a couple nice guys who had stayed at the Lookout the previous two nights. They said we passed the trail junction for Monogram Lake, so we backtracked with them (down) for maybe half a mile. After further review, we decided they missed the junction coming down, and so back up we went. Nice conversation, extra mile credit.

We found the junction, and at this point I thought we had 500 more feet of climbing, and we'd find the lake in a mile or so. Obviously, in retrospect, I was light on my research and prep. But eventually, after more climb, we came into an open basin, and then the wildflowers started popping. Surprised they were still in bloom, but the full menu was out--lupine, paintbrush, heather, asters, daisies, and so on. I think I saw the most abundant patches of paintbrush I've ever seen.

The blueberries were also abundant. As many as I can remember anywhere, really. Tart, easy to reach for, and very beary territory. We were expecting, hoping to see a bear, safely. Mike might've scared one off--big boom in the brush--but we never laid eyes on one. The reports say they are all over the place, and that's not hard to believe.

The lake seemed to take forever to materialize, and we were starting to wonder if climate change had done away with it, but we pressed on a little further, and voila, a beautiful alpine lake, sitting in a bowl.

We tried fishing, and Mike caught one. Supposedly, you can't fail at this lake, but I didn't bring one in. I did tie up a lure and bobber on a log, and then had to go in after it, because, leave no trace, and all that. Cold, but not unbearable--probably nice on a sunny day.

The return back was much easier, because it was mostly down, once we got back up out of the lake basin. The trail is a little narrow, with many steep ledges and opportunities to trip, and so maybe I'm older, but I don't really think this is a good downhill run.

Great day in the North Cascades, to somewhere new. Big thanks to Mike, who is always great company.

Sourdough Mountain

 

Craig and I went up and over Sourdough Mountain on Saturday. It is a personal favorite for each of us. Part of the North Cascades National Park. Hard—over 5000 feet of climbing in about 6 miles.  The first mile or two is really a grind.  But at about mile 3, you cross a mountain creek, the trees thin, and soon you’re on an open mountainside, with wildflowers all around, and crisp views of the aquamarine Diablo Lake, below. That's Diablo, above.

I like the workout. You know its going to be a huff. Everything feels earned, and then the payoff is worth the effort, especially on a clear day like we had.

On top, there are 360 degree views of the North Cascades---the Picketts, Hozomeen and Desolation, Jack Mountain, Colonial, and countless peaks I can’t name. Craig could. He writes guidebooks and outdoors articles, and is really knowledgeable in all things trail. Check out his 100 Classic Hikes of Washington, which includes Sourdough. A beautiful book, among many he has written. So, besides  chatting, he also pointed out a number of things I didn’t know. E.g. Pierce Mountain is not named after Franklin Pierce, but rather an early surveyor.  

360 degrees doesn't really capture it. That's just two dimensions, this so much more. Unobsructed views says it a bit better.

The day was perfect. HD skies for miles and miles. It seems the snowfields melted earlier this year—disturbing, with all the news of climate change. On the day, I saw a marmot, a couple toads and a turkey.

We went down the Pierce Mountain side.  I’ve done this once before. On a July in Saturday, we saw no one. No one. The Pierce Mountain campsite looked like a great place to spend a quiet night.

On the way down, we spied the Desolation Mountain Lookout, far up Ross Lake, sun reflecting off its roof. The Pierce Mountain trail is a bit rough and overgrown, especially through a burn section. It'd be tough after a recent rain. Most notable to me was the lack of water—dry times, all the way back to the car. The beauty of going down this side was the slower pitch through open field of heather, with long views. I expected to see a bear or two, but alas. Navigation wasn't an issue as cairns were well placed, but I had a bit more trouble once, when there was more snow. Once you reach the trees, the trail is readily identifiable, but before that, caution is warranted, as it wouldn't be too hard to drift away from the trail.

A whole loop can been done, but we opted to park a car at Ross Dam, and one at Diablo, saving us the final 5 or 6 miles. We still had a well-earned 15 miles for the day. My right foot wasn’t all that cooperative, rolling as it does once or twice on the way down. 

A magnificent day.

 

Easy Pass-Fisher Valley-Thunder Creek

My friend Craig and I finally were able to coordinate this last weekend and do the Easy Pass to Thunder Creek route. I consider this a classic North Cascades route, and this was my 6th time going point to point in one day. I'm out of shape, though always trying to improve, and this was a pretty big effort for me right now.  It's about 24 miles, with a 2000 foot climb up to 6500 feet at the start, over Easy Pass. The rest of the way is mostly downhill.

Craig was terrific to hike with. Craig writes guidebooks, and so he's really at home on the trails. It was great to share the trail, talking about this and that. He also took some terrific photos, as part of his annual Hike-A-Thon effort for Washington Trails Association. He's pretty near his goal of raising $5000 for trails. Hopefully we get out soon again.

So...this day will forever be remembered as that time I got chased by a bear. We were jogging slow through the Fisher Valley, with Fisher Creek maybe 50 yards to our right. Suddenly, I heard snorting, and crashing, and saw ears and a head coming my way. So many thoughts, compressed into a second or two. I yelled "Bear! Bear! Bear!" I ran forward. Craig said not to run. I probably was about to stop anyway--i'm not outrunning a bear. The bear came up on to the trail. I was turned towards it. I took picture #1. Then another, with a flash. The bear took off in the other direction. The theory is the bear was a two year old, still full of energy and curiosity. Happy not to get hugged, this time.

Pictures below. The Fisher Valley is one of the most beautiful places I know. It's also away from the day hikers. I love its remote feel. A good place for bears and moose and such. We did see moose pellets, and I got stung by a yellow jacket or something.

Bob Dylan and the Band on the way up. 6:30 AM meet up at Colonial Creek. 10.5 hours on trail. Home by 10, after going back to Easy Pass to pick up my car.

Pelton Basin

My friend Mike and I went up and over Cascade Pass last week, and hiked down into Pelton Basin.  I typically head up to the spectacular Sahale Arm, but I've heard good things about this trail, which goes all the ways to Stehekin. Cascade Pass trailhead is one of the most popular ones in the North Cascades National Park complex, and for good reason.

Pelton Basin is about a half mile beyond Cascade Pass. It rained the whole way in. I haven't hiked so long in the rain in a while. This isn't really a complaint--I have good memories of many rain hikes, and this one will be included in that group now. It's just something different. Glad I bought the right jacket, and if I had to do it again, I'd have an extra poncho to go over it, just in case things got cooler.

We made steady time up to the pass, which is still snow free. The hope was that on the other side of the pass, which I consider eastern Washington, things would dry up. Eventually they did, after we went past Pelton Basin campground. We probably went another half mile beyond the Basin, for something like 10 or 11 miles on the day, with some healthy climbing to the 6pass.

There were much better views of hanging glaciers in the valley just a bit further down the trail. Unfortunately, my camera battery died, so all I have here is a few pictures here, reflecting the conditions. Pelton Basin itself is basically a somewhat tight valley with some beautiful North Cascades style flat land in the middle, with a creek running through it. We looked for bears and other big, live animals, but at best we saw perhaps spots on far hillsides that may or may not have been.

In the next couple years, I want to take the trail to Stehekin. From the trailhead, it is a bout 31 miles or so, i think, but a bus into town can be caught from High Bridge, which is at about 22 miles. I could see it being done in a day with an early start, though there are many options.

So glad Mike could get out and hike this trail in the rain with me. Mike, you are the best! He had to get up early--probably in the 4 AM hour, just to meet me in Mount Vernon at 6 AM. We also had the pleasure of picking up two Swedish environmental science students who were on holiday at the trailhead, and were returning from Sahale Arm. It was kind of funny---they asked us for a ride to Marblemount, and hit the hitchhiking jackpot, with a ride all the way to Seattle.

Easy Pass to Thunder Creek

I hiked and jogged my way from Easy Pass to Thunder Creek in the North Cascades National Park on Saturday.  This was my fifth time completing this route, which is a personal favorite.  This year I was inspired to take this on by friends Ras and Kathy, who made this part of the UltraPedestrian Wilderness Challenge. I actually first met Ras when we took this on together some years back.

This is a point to point route, which requires something of a plan. Others who have been doing this have biked up Highway 20 to pick up their vehicle.  I was fortunate enough to connect with John, Chris, and Arya, who also were taking on this challenge on Saturday. We met at 4:00 AM at Colonial Creek, even before the birds chirp, and took Chris's rig up to Easy Pass. Chris was the superstar on the day, deciding to take on the route from Colonial Creek to Easy Pass, which is mostly uphill. This choice meant that we didn't have to shuttle the cars back at the end of the day. 

The route:  basically, three miles up to the top of Easy Pass, approximately 6500 feet. Then, down into the Fisher Basin, through one of the most beautiful subalpine valleys you'll ever find, with views of glaciers in the distance. A wild place, where wolves and wolverines wander. Fisher Creek reminds me of high Yellowstone creeks. The trail then descends into old growth forest, paralleling the creek, mostly descending. At Junction, you bend up into the Thunder Creek valley, for about ten miles until the Colonial Creek campground. The full route is about 24 miles.

I don't move fast these days, due to various infirmities and lack of overall training. I knew I'd be ok, as long as I managed the heat, which reached the 90s by the end of the day. The fast trail runner can knock this out in five to eight hours, maybe quicker. The footing isn't always smooth, though long stretches, including most of the last ten miles, is soft and fast. 

A quiet climb to Easy Pass, with the sun casting shadows on the peaks.  I stopped to examine the wild blueberry bushes, the thistles, high alpine ferns. This trek is terrific for nature students, because it travels above treeline on an East facing Cascade slope, all the way down to a westside lower old growth valley.  It is filled with mushrooms, golden larches, ancient cedars, and glacier fed creeks. The water of the creeks is milky, then jade green, and crystal clear.  Having done this a few times, I would say the best time is in September or October, when the larches are turning golden and the mushrooms are yellow, red, and purple.

I found a photo-friendly hoary marmot on the drop into Fisher Basin. This marmot seemed to be giving grouse a run for the money in the most likely to be caught with my bare hands category.  Just hanging out, eventually Mr./Mrs. Marmot dropped into a hole, and then came out again after I hit a switchback. 

The trail down into Fisher Basin has a bit of erosion, but is clear. The trail through Fisher Valley was occasionally bushy, but mostly is the delightful path through a field of grasses, berry bushes and fireweed. I ran into a few backpackers who were doing an eight day tour of the North Cascades, having started at Rainy Pass and looped all the way to Easy Pass. Two of them were wearing the same Montrail shoes I had on, which I thought was cool, since they had full-week packs.

There is plenty of water on the trail. Bugs are out right now. Stopping in some sections guaranteed a meeting with those biting fly types.  

The sun was starting to cook, so dropping into the forest was good, after Fisher Basin. The trail here is rooty, but pleasant, with the occasional evidence of mudslide, and pullout spots along the creek.  There are a number of log crossings here, but nothing unmanageable.

The Park Service is putting serious efforts into this trail this year.  There are several new log bridge crossings, which are terrific. In the past, a couple of the creeks have posed a bit of a challenge to cross, and one high log crossing last year didn't have a rail.  The engineering and care on these bridges is terrific, and its pretty cool to stand above the small waterfalls they span.  The trail from Cosho down also has had some serious clearing--not nearly as bushy as in the past. I ran into a crew who were out there working. Kind of strange hearing a chainsaw running 15 miles away from the nearest road, but I'm glad for their work.

Lots of moss, as you descend. Lots of green, green moss.

I also ran into Chris as he made his way up to Easy Pass. We stopped and chatted for a few minutes. My hat is off to you Chris--quite the effort.

I was spent by the time I reached Junction. The sign at Junction says it is 9 miles to Diablo from there, but it sure feels like a long nine miles, and the National Park Service site says it is 10 miles. The Thunder Creek Basin trail is gorgeous, marked by big trees, the jade colored McCallister Creek, and occasional views of glaciers. I stopped at a couple creeks to cool off along the way, and soon enough I was strolling along the Thunder Creek trail, by ancient cedars, into Colonial Creek campground.

A spectacular day, with clear skies, warm to hot temps, clear trails, new friends, and plenty of adventure. Love the North Cascades.