Desolation Peak has long been on my list of to do's, and in an effort to get "something done" this summer, I went up there last weekend with Mike. We took the short route, reserving a ride out and a ride back on the Ross Lake Resort Water Taxi. It made for a long day, and the climb was tough, but I'm still smiling about the whole thing, a week later.
Mike met at our place in Mount Vernon at 5:30 AM, and we had an 8:00 AM pickup reserved at Ross Lake. It was a little close, time wise. The drive to the Mile Marker 134 lot is about 1.5 hours from the home. Then there's a mile hike down to the lake. We stopped in Marblemount and were at the parking lot around 7:35. Then, without thinking or reading the sign, I led us down to the dam, when in fact we were supposed to be at a dock area on the lake. It all worked out, but I thought I messed the day up there, as we were jogging back to correct the error.
The boat is $150 each way, which would've been stiff, but we got to share the boat with three other hikers, knocking our cost down. The trailhead is far up Ross Lake, near the Canadian border, and so we had a terrific boat ride through the north Cascades, noting all the people camping on shore and islands, some on multi-day canoe journeys.
Desolation Peak is a somewhat renowned peak, as it was home to the beat author Jack Kerouac for.a summer or two in the 50s. He wrote a book called Dharma Bums, which discusses the lookout life, Ross Lake, and the Skagit Valley at great length. His peer Gary Snyder stayed at the lookout to the south, on Sourdough Mountain, a favorite hike of mine, and one which is easier to get to. I say "easier", only in reference to the trailhead. The hike up Sourdough is a tough one.
As is Desolation Peak, too, I found. The first 2.5 miles or so are under shade, but after that, the exposure to sun is strong. I brought plenty of water, as the guidance said, and we refilled up at the last crick, about 2.25 miles in. Others were really struggling with the heat and climb. It was probably an 80-85 degree day.
Above the treelike, the views really open up, particularly with southern views down the lake towards Jack Mountain and its unmistakable glacier (Noha...). A few boats on the lake looked like vehicles viewed from a plane.
It took us about 3 hours to make the 4.8 mile hike to the top. Near the top, the 360 degree views open up, with the Pasayten to the east, Mount Baker to the west, Ross looking south, and the Canadian range to the north, and most notably, Hozomeen Mountain. Hozomeen Mountain is the four pointed peak in the pics below--it is a spectacular mountain sight.
The lookout was open, and Jim, the caretaker was there. He has been living in fire lookouts for some 30 years, I think, and has been at this one for several years. The Seattle Times ran a story on him a few weeks back, and there is a video featuring him about the lookout life. I felt a bit honored to meet him, because of the special life he leads.
The hike down was easier than going up, but boy, I was not that flexible and I was guarding my footsteps, so as not to roll ankles. I think I need do more of this mountain hiking and work on my agility. Use it or lose it, I guess.
My pics don't do the views justice, but they give an idea of things. I should've cleaned the lens a bit, and maybe worked a few filters. Gone are the days of 12/24/36 shot rolls.
A great day with Mike, and so glad to have finally got up on top of Desolation Peak. As a North Cascades guy, its something I feel I should've done a long time ago, but nice to know there's always a new trail to go explore around here. Maybe next time I'll do the backpack version, which is about 50 miles. Camping on the lake would be good stuff.
