Easy Pass-Fisher Valley-Thunder Creek

My friend Craig and I finally were able to coordinate this last weekend and do the Easy Pass to Thunder Creek route. I consider this a classic North Cascades route, and this was my 6th time going point to point in one day. I'm out of shape, though always trying to improve, and this was a pretty big effort for me right now.  It's about 24 miles, with a 2000 foot climb up to 6500 feet at the start, over Easy Pass. The rest of the way is mostly downhill.

Craig was terrific to hike with. Craig writes guidebooks, and so he's really at home on the trails. It was great to share the trail, talking about this and that. He also took some terrific photos, as part of his annual Hike-A-Thon effort for Washington Trails Association. He's pretty near his goal of raising $5000 for trails. Hopefully we get out soon again.

So...this day will forever be remembered as that time I got chased by a bear. We were jogging slow through the Fisher Valley, with Fisher Creek maybe 50 yards to our right. Suddenly, I heard snorting, and crashing, and saw ears and a head coming my way. So many thoughts, compressed into a second or two. I yelled "Bear! Bear! Bear!" I ran forward. Craig said not to run. I probably was about to stop anyway--i'm not outrunning a bear. The bear came up on to the trail. I was turned towards it. I took picture #1. Then another, with a flash. The bear took off in the other direction. The theory is the bear was a two year old, still full of energy and curiosity. Happy not to get hugged, this time.

Pictures below. The Fisher Valley is one of the most beautiful places I know. It's also away from the day hikers. I love its remote feel. A good place for bears and moose and such. We did see moose pellets, and I got stung by a yellow jacket or something.

Bob Dylan and the Band on the way up. 6:30 AM meet up at Colonial Creek. 10.5 hours on trail. Home by 10, after going back to Easy Pass to pick up my car.

Best of 2015

Here's the list for 2015:

1.              The Redwoods National and State Parks

My wife and I took a road trip down to the Redwoods. I haven't been there since the mid-90s, I think. This is a hard place to get to, unless you set out to go there, or want to do the 101. A simply  wonderful trip, and definitely one of my favorite memories from 2015. We camped in Jedediah Smith State Park, with a nice campfire each night. Note: no campfires allowed in WA and OR, due to a very bad fire season. We went to a campfire presentation by the ranger, where we learned all about the ecology of redwoods groves. We hiked redwoods trails, and of course, the redwoods are crazy big. BIG. We walked the beach at Crescent City, as I hunted for sand dollars. We drove through a tree for $5. I ran the Boy Scout Tree trail, which is like running through Star Wars’ Forests of Endor. I want to go back to the Redwoods, maybe with a backpack.

Boy Scout Tree Trail

2.              New York City and Central Park

Wilderness, this is not. Central Park though is one of the great parks of the world, and I've always wanted to spend time there, and in the Big Apple. I won tickets to the Global Citizen festival concert, featuring Pearl Jam, Coldplay, Beyonce, and Ed Sheeran, and so this was the year. We stayed in Brooklyn for a few nights, and then Manhattan.  The concert was in Central Park, on the Great Lawn. Later, I knocked out a morning run in Central Park. Central Park is amazing, as an oasis of nature in the middle of the concrete jungle. It’s creation and maintenance is a lesson in conservation and environmental ethics. We also managed a walk across the famous Brooklyn Bridge, visited the Bronx for a Yankees game, checked out Pete Davidson at the famous Caroline's Comedy Club, and rode the water-taxi all around the Harbor, including by the Statue of Liberty and Ellis Island. We got really good getting around town on the subway, which I find fascinating. The Pope was even in town. 

Nobel Peace Prize winner Malala, 

speaking at the Global Citizen Festival in Central Park

3.              Chinook Pass Loop

This was one of two Ultrapedestrian Wilderness Challenges I took on this year.  A 32 mile loop on an exceptionally hot day in July was a fool’s mission, but I’m just that kind of fool sometimes.  The loop starts at Chinook Pass by the Willam O. Douglas Wilderness down by Mt. Rainier, and has about a dozen miles on the PCT, before circling back to the start point via the Laughingwater Creek and Eastside trails.  I was a dead man walking on the Eastside Trail, and the final climb up out to Tipsoo Lake was a real grunt. But that morning, with the full moon high in the sky, wandering off along the PCT and kicking up deer, alongside full fields of blooming lupine—this was something really, really special. Thanks Ras and Kathy for putting this on my map. ( :

Pacific Crest Trail, near Chinook Pass, in July

Mount Rainier from Pacific Crest Trail

4.              Railroad Grade #1 and #2

I twice hiked up to Railroad Grade in the Mount Baker Wilderness with friend Dean and his good dog, The Dude. Ruth came once! The first hike was in February, which is downright bizarre, but there was just no snow last winter. The lack of snowpack was unreal. Railroad Grade is an access point to climbing Mount Baker, and usually doesn’t turn snow-free until summer. We also hiked Railroad Grade a few months later, and there must have been 150 people trying to summit Baker that day from the south. Always a good day on the trail with Dean, Ruth, and their dog, the Dude.

Railroad Grade, Mt. Baker Wilderness, in February 2015

Railroad Grade in June 2015

Mount Baker summit, viewed from Railroad Grade

5.              Olympic National Park, Sol Duc, and the Elwha Trail

Early in the year, several good friends decided to run the Seven Lakes Basin loop over in the Olympics by the Sol Duc hotsprings.  I bagged on the loop, which was a total mistake, as there was an 18 mile loop I know I could’ve managed in retrospect. Still, lemons to lemonade: after camping out the night with BJ, Mike, Rich, Dan, Justin and dogs, I headed over to the Elwha Valley to see the recently breached dam. The breach of the Elwha Dam is a big deal for the Olympic N.P.  They have been talking about doing this for 20 years, and conservation finally won out. The valley which was formerly a lake is now a recovering greenspace. I understand the salmon are already coming back. 100 pound Kings used to swim the Elwha, like the Kenai in Alaska. I hiked the trail into this valley, through a sea of stumps and grass type plants. Below, you can see the breached dam.

Breached Elwha Dam, from the drained basin

6.              Easy Pass to Thunder Creek

The Easy Pass to Thunder Creek journey is a favorite North Cascades run of mine. This year, I did it for my fifth time, as my second Ultrapedestrian Wilderness Challenge. The trail cuts through the heart of the North Cascades, through high alpine to river valley. The Fisher Creek valley below Easy Pass is one of my favorite places. I even met a few new friends by doing this as a Challenge, and hope to see them on the trail again this year. Scored some miles for WTA's Hike-A-Thon here too: 24, by my count. Notable: some excellent improvements to the trail, with new bridges over some previously sketchy creek crossings.

Easy Pass, right before a 20 mile descent

 through Fisher Creek and Thunder Creek valleys

Hoary Marmot, Fisher Creek Valley resident

7.              Baker Lake 50k

I made it back once again to my favorite 50k. 12th time now. My time was slower than ever, but that didn’t matter much. It was a terrific day on the trail, with the reflection of Mount Baker on the lake, shining like a mirror in a Disney film. Friend Stan asked my wife after the event, “What’s with the stick?” as I used a hiking stick all the way. It helps. Good memory of the encouragement from Tim at the half-way mark, and chatting afterwards with him, John, Kevin and a few other good friends. I like it quiet on the trail but I like to share about the experience afterwards. And the good finish line eats.

Mount Baker, reflected in Baker Lake, from Baker Lake trail

8.              Green Mountain Lookout

The Suiattle River area has been difficult to access for over a decade, due to road washouts. With the road recently fixed, I had to get a day in over there in the Glacier Park Wilderness. I chose to go to Green Mountain Lookout in the fall, which has been the subject of some controversy in the last few years. Its an interesting story that would make a good article, as a wilderness conservation non-profit challenged in federal court the U.S. Government’s use of helicopters to fly in materials to repair the lookout. As I recall, the group won in court, despite an outcry against their legal action, and then special legislation was passed in Congress.  Anyway, it’s a very reasonable hike that keeps getting higher and higher, until you’re at the Lookout, perched on something akin to the cliffs of Mordor.  The slopes below were full of red and green, declaring the fall season.

Hidden Peak Lookout in Glacier Peak Wilderness

9.              The Oregon Coast

Before we reached the Redwoods, we spent a few days on the Oregon Coast. This deserves a highlight of its own, and you know what I mean if you spent any time there.  One night in Lincoln City to spread the ashes of a friend.  Another night in Coos Bay, which always makes me think of Steve Prefontaine.  In between, the beach, the winding road, and views of haystacks and rolling surf, curve after curve.  I also tried the “world’s best clam chowder” in a few different places. On the way back, we cut over to Ashland and checked out the renowned Oregon Shakespeare Festival.

Sunset at Lincoln City, Oregon

10.        Turtleback Mountain, Orcas Island

I’ve been to Orcas Island in the San Juan Islands many, many times in my life. I’ve ran my share of Orcas 50ks and know Moran State Park pretty well.  I camped in the bunkhouse for my first time when I was 13 years old. Even my Dad knows the island—he likes to tell me the story of how he caught a big fish Camp Orkila, which had to be in the 1940s. Over the last few years, I have been hearing about Turtleback Mountain, which is on the ferry dock landing side of the island. I finally hiked and ran this wonderful flip side to the island, and It Was Good. 

View from Turtleback Mountain (Waldron Island, San Juan Island)

Other than these highlights, my training lagged. I wasn’t a regular runner, but I stayed somewhat  active. I managed a trip to Washington D.C., National Harbor, and Virginia, where I saw the folks, attended a conference, and came back from the Nationals game via a Potomac River boat. Lots of baseball this year:  two Nationals games, a Yankees game in the Bronx, a few Ms games in Seattle,  and an Everett Aquasox game. What can I say?--I like baseball.

Nationals Stadium

Concerts were incredible too this year, including right up front for a Mad Season/Temple of the Dog reunion show at Benaroya Hall, opening night for Sleater-Kinney’s reunion at the Showbox, and Pearl Jam in Central Park, along with other huge acts. We also made it to the Fifth Avenue Theater for the Sound of Music and the Seattle Opera a few times.

Temple of the Dog reunion, Benaroya Hall 

(Pictured, left to right: 
Mike McCready, Jeff Ament, Chris Cornell, Stone Gossard)

And then there’s the family events—weddings, get-togethers—a good year on this front, all around. So much more to say there, but I'll leave it be, except to say that this is wonderful. This past year I was also inspired by so many amazing accomplishments of friends. Really amazing. I am very fortunate for all the people in my life.

So here I am on the edge of 2016.  Metaphorically, I don't know if I'm looking up the hill or down the hill, but I expect good things are coming.

Easy Pass to Thunder Creek

I hiked and jogged my way from Easy Pass to Thunder Creek in the North Cascades National Park on Saturday.  This was my fifth time completing this route, which is a personal favorite.  This year I was inspired to take this on by friends Ras and Kathy, who made this part of the UltraPedestrian Wilderness Challenge. I actually first met Ras when we took this on together some years back.

This is a point to point route, which requires something of a plan. Others who have been doing this have biked up Highway 20 to pick up their vehicle.  I was fortunate enough to connect with John, Chris, and Arya, who also were taking on this challenge on Saturday. We met at 4:00 AM at Colonial Creek, even before the birds chirp, and took Chris's rig up to Easy Pass. Chris was the superstar on the day, deciding to take on the route from Colonial Creek to Easy Pass, which is mostly uphill. This choice meant that we didn't have to shuttle the cars back at the end of the day. 

The route:  basically, three miles up to the top of Easy Pass, approximately 6500 feet. Then, down into the Fisher Basin, through one of the most beautiful subalpine valleys you'll ever find, with views of glaciers in the distance. A wild place, where wolves and wolverines wander. Fisher Creek reminds me of high Yellowstone creeks. The trail then descends into old growth forest, paralleling the creek, mostly descending. At Junction, you bend up into the Thunder Creek valley, for about ten miles until the Colonial Creek campground. The full route is about 24 miles.

I don't move fast these days, due to various infirmities and lack of overall training. I knew I'd be ok, as long as I managed the heat, which reached the 90s by the end of the day. The fast trail runner can knock this out in five to eight hours, maybe quicker. The footing isn't always smooth, though long stretches, including most of the last ten miles, is soft and fast. 

A quiet climb to Easy Pass, with the sun casting shadows on the peaks.  I stopped to examine the wild blueberry bushes, the thistles, high alpine ferns. This trek is terrific for nature students, because it travels above treeline on an East facing Cascade slope, all the way down to a westside lower old growth valley.  It is filled with mushrooms, golden larches, ancient cedars, and glacier fed creeks. The water of the creeks is milky, then jade green, and crystal clear.  Having done this a few times, I would say the best time is in September or October, when the larches are turning golden and the mushrooms are yellow, red, and purple.

I found a photo-friendly hoary marmot on the drop into Fisher Basin. This marmot seemed to be giving grouse a run for the money in the most likely to be caught with my bare hands category.  Just hanging out, eventually Mr./Mrs. Marmot dropped into a hole, and then came out again after I hit a switchback. 

The trail down into Fisher Basin has a bit of erosion, but is clear. The trail through Fisher Valley was occasionally bushy, but mostly is the delightful path through a field of grasses, berry bushes and fireweed. I ran into a few backpackers who were doing an eight day tour of the North Cascades, having started at Rainy Pass and looped all the way to Easy Pass. Two of them were wearing the same Montrail shoes I had on, which I thought was cool, since they had full-week packs.

There is plenty of water on the trail. Bugs are out right now. Stopping in some sections guaranteed a meeting with those biting fly types.  

The sun was starting to cook, so dropping into the forest was good, after Fisher Basin. The trail here is rooty, but pleasant, with the occasional evidence of mudslide, and pullout spots along the creek.  There are a number of log crossings here, but nothing unmanageable.

The Park Service is putting serious efforts into this trail this year.  There are several new log bridge crossings, which are terrific. In the past, a couple of the creeks have posed a bit of a challenge to cross, and one high log crossing last year didn't have a rail.  The engineering and care on these bridges is terrific, and its pretty cool to stand above the small waterfalls they span.  The trail from Cosho down also has had some serious clearing--not nearly as bushy as in the past. I ran into a crew who were out there working. Kind of strange hearing a chainsaw running 15 miles away from the nearest road, but I'm glad for their work.

Lots of moss, as you descend. Lots of green, green moss.

I also ran into Chris as he made his way up to Easy Pass. We stopped and chatted for a few minutes. My hat is off to you Chris--quite the effort.

I was spent by the time I reached Junction. The sign at Junction says it is 9 miles to Diablo from there, but it sure feels like a long nine miles, and the National Park Service site says it is 10 miles. The Thunder Creek Basin trail is gorgeous, marked by big trees, the jade colored McCallister Creek, and occasional views of glaciers. I stopped at a couple creeks to cool off along the way, and soon enough I was strolling along the Thunder Creek trail, by ancient cedars, into Colonial Creek campground.

A spectacular day, with clear skies, warm to hot temps, clear trails, new friends, and plenty of adventure. Love the North Cascades.

Easy Pass to Colonial Creek

Rich, Allen and I went from Easy Pass to Colonial Creek in the North Cascades on Saturday.  This is a favorite route of mine. The weather was good to us, and fall colors were in abundance. The famed larches were in full turn to gold. The berry bushes provide hillsides of reds. We saw mushrooms and fungi of all sorts and colors--this route is particularly good for this.

As I'm not in ultra running shape, this was a tough effort for me, though it shouldn't be for anyone who is running long frequently.  The distance is somewhere between 25 and 28 miles.  This is a point to point, requiring two cars. I pretty much had to walk the last few miles, and we walked many early miles too, just because. I rolled my ankle near Fischer Camp, which meant 20 miles of careful steps later. Rich and Allen were phenomenal in showing patience with me.

This is a favorite route of mine. The trail cuts through the heart of the North Cascades, while going through several ecological zones. The trail starts in east side sub alpine and finishes in west side old growth. The best part in my opinion is the Fisher Creek basin, which is simply spectacular. There are magical green moss fields down low, clear creek water running over riverstone, and a stunning headwall at the top of the valley.  Lower, but before the forsest begins again, you run through shoulder height bushes which surely hide bears and other critters. Nary a soul. In fact, we didn't see anyone the whole day, which is amazing, for such a long trail in the middle of the North Cascades. Such solitude is treasure.

There were a few creek crossings of modest safety interest. One log bridge was missing a rail, which gave me a slight surge of fear, as it required four steps on the wet log, about 10 feet above running, ice water. A couple other crossings had high log crossings, but I decided to get the feet wet rather than trust my untrustworthy balance.

A good day in the mountains. Thanks guys!